Eggnog

Steps

1. Set a medium bowl in a larger bowl of ice water and rest a fine-mesh strainer on top. Having it ready lets you cool the custard quickly.
2. Warm the milk, cinnamon stick and nutmeg in a heavy saucepan over medium heat for about 5 minutes, until you see steam. Meanwhile, put the egg yolks, sugar and salt in a large bowl and beat for about 1 minute, until thick and light yellow.
3. Slowly pour about 1 cup of the hot milk into the yolks, whisking the whole time. Then pour the warmed yolk mixture back into the saucepan.
4. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a spatula, until the custard thickens slightly and reaches 160°F on an instant-read thermometer, 5 to 8 minutes. Keep it below a simmer so the eggs stay smooth.
5. Pour the custard through the strainer into the chilled bowl and discard the cinnamon stick. Stir often until it feels cool, about 10 minutes.
6. Stir in the cream, vanilla and rum or other spirit, if using. Cover and chill in the fridge until very cold, at least 4 hours.
7. Whisk well before serving, then pour into small glasses and top each with a pinch of nutmeg.

Good to know

• It keeps, covered, in the fridge for up to 3 days, so you can make it well ahead. It thickens as it chills; whisk in a splash of milk if it gets too thick.
• For an alcohol-free batch, skip the spirits and stir in 1/2 teaspoon rum extract, or set the bottle beside the pitcher so grown-ups can add their own.
• To serve a crowd, double everything and use a large, heavy pot; the custard will take a few minutes longer to reach 160°F.
• For a lighter eggnog, use half-and-half in place of the heavy cream.