Wassail

Steps

1. Press 2 or 3 cloves into the rind of each orange round. Studding the orange keeps the cloves together, so they are easy to lift out later.
2. Pour the cider, orange juice, pineapple juice and lemon juice into a large pot. Stir in the brown sugar and allspice, then add the cinnamon sticks and orange rounds.
3. Heat over medium for 10 to 15 minutes, until steaming. Turn the heat to low before it simmers, and never let it boil.
4. Let it steep on low for 30 minutes, until it smells warm and spicy. Taste and add more brown sugar if you like it sweeter.
5. Use a slotted spoon to lift out the cinnamon sticks and orange rounds. Ladle into mugs and serve hot.

Good to know

• For a party, put everything in a 5-quart or larger slow cooker and heat on low for 3 to 4 hours or high for about 2 hours, until hot and steaming. Then switch to warm and set out a ladle.
• Make it up to 3 days ahead. Lift out the orange and cinnamon, cool and refrigerate, then rewarm gently on the stove.
• For grown-up mugs, stir about 2 tablespoons of brandy, bourbon or spiced rum into each cup and keep the pot itself alcohol-free.
• Swap the pineapple juice for cranberry juice for a deeper red color and a tart edge.