A Christmas tree strung with lights beside a harbor in the snow, mountains behind it

Christmas around the world Norway

A Norwegian Christmas

Bells at five, an almond in the porridge and a stack of warm lefse

Henningsvær, in the Lofoten Islands, where the sun stays below the horizon for weeks around Christmas

Norway keeps Christmas by candlelight through the longest nights of the year. Here is how the country celebrates, and how to bring a little of it home: a recipe card for lefse, the pantry to go with it and a Christmas movie set in Bergen.

A snowy village at dusk under a pink sky and a rising moon, a church spire among the houses
Orkanger, Norway

Julaften, December 24

Christmas Eve at five

In Norway, Christmas Eve is the big night. At five in the evening, church bells ring Christmas in across the country. Families sit down to dinner, then open their presents the same night, sometimes handed out by a julenisse who knocks at the door to ask whether there are any good children inside.

What is on the table depends on where you live. Ribbe, roast pork belly with a crackling crust, is the favorite across much of the east. In the west it is pinnekjøtt, salted and dried lamb ribs steamed over birch sticks. Some families keep to lutefisk or cod.

A plate of creamy rice pudding topped with red berry sauce
Rice cream with red berry sauce

A game for the whole table

The almond in the porridge

On Christmas Eve, many Norwegian families eat risengrynsgrøt, a creamy rice porridge with butter, sugar and cinnamon. One whole almond hides in the pot, and whoever finds it in their bowl wins a marzipan pig.

Leftover porridge becomes riskrem, folded with whipped cream and served with a red berry sauce, and some families hide the almond there instead. To try it at home, stir one blanched almond into your favorite rice pudding and keep a marzipan pig ready.

Syv slag

Seven kinds of cookies

Many Norwegian kitchens aim for syv slag, seven kinds of Christmas cookies, baked through December and kept in tins for whoever stops by.

  1. KrumkakerThin, crisp cookies baked on a patterned iron and rolled into cones while warm.
  2. SandbakkelsButtery almond cookies pressed into little fluted tins.
  3. BerlinerkranserRich little wreaths made with cooked egg yolks.
  4. PepperkakerThin, spiced gingerbread, cut into hearts and little figures.
  5. GoroCrisp cardamom wafers baked in a decorative iron.
  6. FattigmannTwists of fried dough scented with cardamom and dusted with sugar.
  7. SerinakakerButter cookies brushed with egg and topped with pearl sugar or chopped almonds.
A bandstand strung with white lights in a city park at night

Pepperkakebyen

A town made of gingerbread

Every Christmas since 1991, Bergen has built Pepperkakebyen, a whole town of gingerbread. Kindergartens, schools, businesses and volunteers make the pieces, around 2,000 little buildings in all, and it is billed as the largest gingerbread town in the world.

Bergen at Christmas

Same procedure as every year

Christmas on Norwegian TV

Two broadcasts are as much a part of a Norwegian Christmas as the tree.

December 23, Little Christmas EveNRK

Dinner for One

A short British comedy sketch about a birthday dinner for absent guests. More than a million Norwegians watch it every year.

December 24, Christmas EveNRK

Three Wishes for Cinderella

A fairy tale film from 1973, made in Czechoslovakia and East Germany, and shown every Christmas Eve since the 1990s. Close to a million people watched it in 2021.

The recipe card

Make the lefse

Lefse on the griddle

A Norwegian Christmas JustChristmas

Lefse

Norwegian potato flatbread

Makes
About 16 rounds
Prep
1 hr
Ready in
5 hr 45 min

Ingredients

For the lefse
  • 2 pounds russet potatoes (about 4 medium), peeled and cut into large chunks
  • 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
  • 1/3 cup heavy cream
  • 2 teaspoons sugar
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
For serving
  • Soft butter
  • Sugar and ground cinnamon
  • Thinly sliced brunost (Norwegian brown cheese), if you like

Steps

  1. Put the potatoes in a large pot, cover them with cold salted water and bring to a boil. Simmer until very tender when pierced with a knife, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain well, then return them to the warm pot for a minute or two to steam dry.
  2. While the potatoes are hot, press them through a potato ricer into a large bowl. Rice them a second time for the smoothest lefse. You should have about 4 cups.
  3. Add the butter, cream, sugar and salt and stir until the butter melts. Spread the potatoes out in the bowl to cool, then cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight. Cold potatoes need less flour, and less flour makes more tender lefse.
  4. Heat a lefse griddle to 500°F, or heat a large dry cast-iron skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. Do not grease it.
  5. Work the flour into the cold potatoes with your hands just until a soft dough forms. Divide it into 16 balls, a scant 1/3 cup each, and keep them in the refrigerator while you work.
  6. Rub flour into a pastry cloth and a cloth-covered rolling pin. Roll one ball from the center out into a very thin round about 10 inches across, turning it and dusting it with flour as needed. It should be thin enough to see the cloth through it.
  7. Lift the round with a lefse stick, or roll it loosely around the rolling pin, and lay it on the griddle. Cook until bubbles rise and brown spots appear on the bottom, about 1 minute. Turn it and cook the other side until spotted, 30 seconds to 1 minute more.
  8. Stack the cooked rounds between clean dish towels as they come off the griddle, so the steam keeps them soft. Roll and cook the rest, flouring the cloth and the pin again each time.
  9. Serve warm or at room temperature. Spread a round with soft butter, sprinkle it with sugar and cinnamon, and roll it up or fold it into quarters. Or lay on thin slices of brunost.

justchristmas.net/recipes/lefse

Shop the pantry

The Norwegian pantry

Everything for lefse day and a Norwegian Christmas table, from the griddle to the brown cheese.

The painted wooden wharf houses of Bryggen under a snowy hillside
Bryggen, Bergen
Just joggers From our shop Just joggers Lefse day is a long afternoon at the griddle. Our just joggers were made for it.

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