Beef Tenderloin

Steps

1. Cut the tenderloin crosswise into two pieces so it fits in a 12-inch skillet. Fold the thin tail end under, then tie each piece with kitchen twine every 1 1/2 inches so it is an even thickness.
2. Rub the salt and pepper over the beef and let it stand on the counter for 1 hour.
3. Heat the oven to 425°F with a rack in the middle. In a small bowl, mash the butter with the garlic, horseradish and herbs.
4. Pat the beef dry. Heat the oil in a 12-inch cast-iron or other oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Sear both pieces, turning every 2 to 3 minutes, until deep brown on all sides, 10 to 12 minutes.
5. Take the skillet off the heat, spread the herb butter over the top of the beef and slide the skillet into the oven.
6. Roast until a thermometer in the thickest part reads 115°F for rare, 125°F for medium-rare or 135°F for medium, 15 to 25 minutes. Check the smaller piece first, since it may finish sooner.
7. Move the beef to a cutting board, tent with foil and rest for 15 minutes. It will rise another 5 to 10 degrees.
8. Snip off the twine, slice the beef 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick, and spoon the buttery pan juices over the top.

Good to know

• Make ahead: tie the beef and rub on the salt and pepper the night before, then refrigerate it uncovered on a rack. The salt has time to sink in and season the meat all the way through.
• Swap: for a smaller group, use a 2 to 3 pound center-cut roast with half the salt and pepper. Leave it whole and start checking after 15 minutes in the oven.
• Leftovers keep 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator. Thin slices on soft rolls with a little horseradish make a lovely lunch the next day.
• The USDA recommends cooking beef roasts to 145°F, then letting them rest at least 3 minutes before carving.